Center Section 
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Center Section
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Getting the saw ready to cut the plywood for the center section bottom.
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Center section plywood bottom.
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Checking the depth of the 1" x 1/16 channel that receives the plywood skin.
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Plans cut out and glued to the plywood.
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Center Section
Viewed: 2297 times.
Getting the saw ready to cut the plywood for the center section bottom.
Viewed: 2026 times.
Center section plywood bottom.
Viewed: 2075 times.
Checking the depth of the 1" x 1/16 channel that receives the plywood skin.
Viewed: 2021 times.
Plans cut out and glued to the plywood.
Viewed: 1936 times.
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I used cap strip pieces held on with thumb tacks to help guide the router.
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End result before removing the cap strip guides.
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All the center section false ribs. I forgot to cut the trailing edge slots in the longest two trailing edge ribs.
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I cut out the end rib plan and glued it to the plywood. I then tacked both ribs together so that they will be identical.
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Again I used cap strips when possible to guide the router.
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I used cap strip pieces held on with thumb tacks to help guide the router.
Viewed: 1967 times.
End result before removing the cap strip guides.
Viewed: 1979 times.
All the center section false ribs. I forgot to cut the trailing edge slots in the longest two trailing edge ribs.
Viewed: 1979 times.
I cut out the end rib plan and glued it to the plywood. I then tacked both ribs together so that they will be identical.
Viewed: 2114 times.
Again I used cap strips when possible to guide the router.
Viewed: 2101 times.
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Getting ready to transfer the edge of the end rib to the spar. It turned out to be a 10 degree angle. I did it this way because the dimension for the spar height is incorrect on the plans.
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All the pieces being trial fit. I think it looks pretty good.
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Rib construction on one side, center section on the other.
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Time to start on the trailing edge bow.
I started with 3 x 1 x 6 ft. and cut them in half on the table saw.
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I then planed each piece down to 1/8 inch thick.
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Getting ready to transfer the edge of the end rib to the spar. It turned out to be a 10 degree angle. I did it this way because the dimension for the spar height is incorrect on the plans.
Viewed: 2113 times.
All the pieces being trial fit. I think it looks pretty good.
Viewed: 1950 times.
Rib construction on one side, center section on the other.
Viewed: 2071 times.
Time to start on the trailing edge bow.
I started with 3 x 1 x 6 ft. and cut them in half on the table saw.
Viewed: 1991 times.
I then planed each piece down to 1/8 inch thick.
Viewed: 2037 times.
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When I was done I had 6 pieces that were 1/8 inch thick and about 10 inches to long.
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I made a box from insulation foam board that was big enough to put the wood in. I glued it together with Gorilla glue.
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I used rubber bands to hold strips between the wood so that the steam could circulate.
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I hooked the steam box up to a tea kettle with a piece of Tygon tubing clamped to the kettle. The other end was to a barbed fitting that was pressed into the foam.
I left it going for about 2 hours. I was surprised that I had good steam flowing through the box and my thermometer was pegged at over 200 degrees.
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I had traced the bow onto the bench and then nailed right angle supports at each rib location. I clamped the steamed strips for three days to make sure that they were dry and then I epoxied them together and re-clamped them.
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When I was done I had 6 pieces that were 1/8 inch thick and about 10 inches to long.
Viewed: 2057 times.
I made a box from insulation foam board that was big enough to put the wood in. I glued it together with Gorilla glue.
Viewed: 1983 times.
I used rubber bands to hold strips between the wood so that the steam could circulate.
Viewed: 2005 times.
I hooked the steam box up to a tea kettle with a piece of Tygon tubing clamped to the kettle. The other end was to a barbed fitting that was pressed into the foam.
I left it going for about 2 hours. I was surprised that I had good steam flowing through the box and my thermometer was pegged at over 200 degrees.
Viewed: 2136 times.
I had traced the bow onto the bench and then nailed right angle supports at each rib location. I clamped the steamed strips for three days to make sure that they were dry and then I epoxied them together and re-clamped them.
Viewed: 2081 times.
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I used two of the ribs to set the space between the spars. I then made some 2x4 spacers so that I could clamp it all together.
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So far so good. I thought the bow came out great. It still needs to be shaped.
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Clamping the doublers to the spars. Although it looks like a lot of clamps they are not very tight. I don't want to squeeze out all the glue, just keep them flat.
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Center section wing mounts after being water jet cut
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I had all the holes water jet cut to .290 then I bolted them together, drilled them to 9/32 and then reamed them to 5/16. I was very pleased with the result.
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I used two of the ribs to set the space between the spars. I then made some 2x4 spacers so that I could clamp it all together.
Viewed: 2009 times.
So far so good. I thought the bow came out great. It still needs to be shaped.
Viewed: 2106 times.
Clamping the doublers to the spars. Although it looks like a lot of clamps they are not very tight. I don't want to squeeze out all the glue, just keep them flat.
Viewed: 1964 times.
Center section wing mounts after being water jet cut
Viewed: 1989 times.
I had all the holes water jet cut to .290 then I bolted them together, drilled them to 9/32 and then reamed them to 5/16. I was very pleased with the result.
Viewed: 1977 times.
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